Lemon-Dill Queso Blanco with Smoky Chickpeas

Steps

1. Prep first: wash a large heavy pot, a slotted spoon, a colander, a fine cotton cloth or doubled cheesecloth and a thermometer in hot soapy water and rinse well. Chop the dill and divide it into two equal halves: one half goes into the cheese, the other half is the garnish. Set the colander lined with the cloth over a bowl.
2. Pour the milk into the pot and heat over medium, stirring the bottom often so it doesn't scorch, until it steams and reaches about 190°F (88°C), 20 to 25 minutes.
3. Turn off the heat. Drizzle in the lemon juice a little at a time while stirring gently. Within a minute the milk breaks: soft white curds clump together and float in a thin, yellow-green, nearly clear whey. If the whey still looks milky, return the pot to low heat for a minute or two until it clears.
4. Let the pot rest off the heat for 10 minutes so the curds firm up.
5. Ladle the curds into the cloth-lined colander and let the whey drain for about 10 minutes. Sprinkle the salt and the first half of the dill over the warm curds and fold them in gently with the slotted spoon.
6. Gather the cloth around the curds, twist it snug, flatten the bundle into a block about 1 inch thick on a plate, and set a second plate weighted with a couple of cans on top. Refrigerate at 40°F (4°C) or below and press for at least 1 hour, until firm and sliceable. You'll get about 400 g of cheese, about 100 g (a generous 3/4 cup of cubes) per serving.
7. While the cheese presses, wash and dry the pot. Warm the olive oil in it over medium heat, add the garlic and cook 1 minute until fragrant and pale gold.
8. Stir in the cumin, smoked paprika and chickpeas and cook 3 to 4 minutes until the chickpeas are warmed and lightly crisp at the edges.
9. Add the cherry tomatoes and cook 3 minutes until they start to burst, then add the spinach and stir until just wilted, about 1 minute.
10. Unwrap the pressed cheese and cut it into 3/4-inch cubes. Divide the chickpea mixture among four bowls, top with the cheese cubes and the remaining half of the dill, and serve with the pita wedges.
11. Refrigerate leftover cheese promptly in a covered container and use within 3 days; this is a fresh cheese, so do not age it.