Overnight Basil Pesto Three-Cheese Pan Pizzas

Steps

1. Day 1, make the dough: in a large bowl, whisk the bread flour, salt and instant yeast. Add the lukewarm water and the dough portion of the olive oil (10 g) and stir until no dry flour remains. This is about 70% hydration and 2% salt.
2. Cover and rest 15 minutes, then knead in the bowl with wet hands for 3 to 4 minutes until smoother and stretchy.
3. Cover and let the dough rise at about 75°F (24°C) for 1 hour, until puffy and about one-third larger, then refrigerate covered for 24 hours (up to 48) for a deeper flavor.
4. Day 2, prepare the pans: pour half of the pan portion of olive oil (15 g) into each of two 10-inch cast-iron skillets or 9-inch round cake pans and spread it over the bottom and sides.
5. Divide the cold dough in half, set one piece in each oiled pan, turn to coat, and press gently toward the edges. If it springs back, rest 15 minutes and press again until it fills the pan.
6. Cover the pans and proof at about 75°F (24°C) for 2 to 2½ hours, until the dough is bubbly, nearly doubled and springs back slowly when poked.
7. While the dough proofs, make the herb sauce: blend the basil, garlic, lemon juice, the sauce portion of Parmesan (20 g) and the sauce portion of olive oil (35 g) in a small food processor until a loose, spoonable sauce forms.
8. Place a rack in the lowest position and preheat the oven to 500°F (260°C) for at least 30 minutes.
9. Top each pizza: spread half of the basil sauce over each dough to the edges with your fingertips, scatter half of the mozzarella over each, letting some touch the pan rim, then dollop half of the ricotta in small spoonfuls over each.
10. Sprinkle the oregano, the red pepper flakes and the remaining topping portion of Parmesan (10 g) evenly over both pizzas.
11. Bake on the lowest rack for 15 to 18 minutes, until the cheese is bubbling and browned at the edges, the bottom is deep golden when lifted with a spatula, and the crust center reads 200°F (93°C).
12. Rest in the pans 3 minutes, slide the pizzas onto a rack to cool 5 minutes so the bottoms stay crisp, then cut each into 6 slices.